Compsand Community

[Jarrod]

I know this would be better suited to a "tool forum" somplace, but this is my home forum, so I figured I'd hit you guys up first.

I'm thinking about getting a bandsaw when I get back to my garage and back into gear.  There are just way too many cool things you can do with one (quickly removing digits included!).    What are the minimum requirements for a bandsaw to cut nice thin slices?  Say somewhere in the 1/8 or 1/16 range.  I ask because harbor freight has some good deals on bandsaws, but I don't want to get something that won't do what I need it to.

Now, lets not start on buying quality tools.   I'm normally on board for that, but I know what a quality bandsaw would cost, and lets just say I could spend a LOT of time at the mill getting wood sliced up for that kind of dough.  I just want the minimum that will do the trick.

Any input?

[Ian]

My cabinet maker buddy talked me out of getting one.Big and supper heavy and if you don't use it daily not much point.If you know any one that has a wood shop buddy up, all the toys jointer, thickness planer, and band saw needed.A great tablesaw will get you closer and be more useful.

That being said the cheap good old ones on Craigs List go for about $300-$400.I have been told that
used is good and min of 14"--18" with a good blade to resaw thin stock.You can make some cool sleds and custom fences.
I passed up on all my father in laws large cabinet shop tools just before my first compsand.
Dolph, oh well.

[Benny]

16" usually is the minimum for the throat opening and HP to resaw anything worthwhile.  Look for cast iron wheels, the flywheel effect is as important as labeled HP. 

Beyond that, its all about the blades. Speaking of blades, only buy one with off-the-shelf blades.  92" is common, so are others.  Otherwise you need custom blades or a blade welder.  Believe me - mine's 98" 

Wide blades, 3/4" or more, and 5-6 teeth per inch will resaw most anything.  A 3/8 blade with a grit front will cut out fin panels like butter.  A 1/2", 8 tpi blade sits in my machine and I use it way more often than I ever thought I would.  Its 80 years old, I inherited it from my grandfather.  Sat it in the garage for sentimental reasons, and it became a go-to tool, much to my surprise.  I dropped in a new motor and a new (grounded) switch and I use it way more than any other saw.  Easier to put in a different blade than it is to clamp a pipe to hit with the Sawzall; or set up the table saw miter fence for one little crosscut, or figure out how to hold a fiberglass sheet steady while I go after it with the jigsaw.  I even use it instead of the hotwire sometimes on EPS. 

Set it up where you'll never have to move it, though.  Ian's right about the weight.  And it really shines on super long stock - I have it right near my garage door so I can open up to feed and I have the whole garage for outfeed... 

I love the tool

[Jarrod]

That's right, I remember now you talking about cutting up balsa for a board...  Loong time ago, it seems like.  Was it pretty easy to get good consistent thicknesses (thinnesses)?  That was one problem I ran into when I milled up some balsa in ecuador, I was using a table saw, and it was very difficult to keep the wood straight enough to really get the cuts all even.  If I could cut my own 1/8 and 1/16 balsa, cedar, paulownia, and do it with quality consistency I'd be VERY tempted to get a bandsaw. 

The one I'm looking at from harbor freight is here:  http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=32206

Dirty bastards raised the "sale price" on me by $40 in the last couple of hours.  Whatever, just shopping still...   It looks like the 14" wouldn't be up to the minimums you mentioned though, benny.   Their 17" saw would, but it starts at $800.   I'd have to be cutting a LOT of wood to justify that!

[huie]

That's right, I remember now you talking about cutting up balsa for a board...  Loong time ago, it seems like.  Was it pretty easy to get good consistent thicknesses (thinnesses)?  That was one problem I ran into when I milled up some balsa in ecuador, I was using a table saw, and it was very difficult to keep the wood straight enough to really get the cuts all even.  If I could cut my own 1/8 and 1/16 balsa, cedar, paulownia, and do it with quality consistency I'd be VERY tempted to get a bandsaw. 

The one I'm looking at from harbor freight is here:  http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=32206

Dirty bastards raised the "sale price" on me by $40 in the last couple of hours.  Whatever, just shopping still...   It looks like the 14" wouldn't be up to the minimums you mentioned though, benny.   Their 17" saw would, but it starts at $800.   I'd have to be cutting a LOT of wood to justify that!

hey shwuz  that little saw looks prety good for the price if you buy i will help you set it up for ripping
check if its got step pulleys  this saw set up at the right speed will rip 4'' ceder all day   or 6'' balsa if you can get it
plus if you get the abrasive blade as well you will find it a joy to cut fibreglass fins out
if you want to cut bigger size&heavier timbers your gona need a lot biger sa
that saw here in austraila would cost me   $600 

lets  know how you go

huie

[Jarrod]

I appreciate the offer, Huie!  Don't be surprised to be getting some PMs from me in a few months.  I still have to get done with this job and take a couple months of vacation, but then I'll be setting up shop again with a vengance!

Are step pulleys for adjusting the speed?  It says it's a single speed, but they have a 4 speed for like $60 more.  The more expensive one does 600, 1140, 1670, & 2670 FPM.  The cheaper one only does 3000 FPM steady.

[huie]

I appreciate the offer, Huie!  Don't be surprised to be getting some PMs from me in a few months.  I still have to get done with this job and take a couple months of vacation, but then I'll be setting up shop again with a vengance!

Are step pulleys for adjusting the speed?  It says it's a single speed, but they have a 4 speed for like $60 more.  The more expensive one does 600, 1140, 1670, & 2670 FPM.  The cheaper one only does 3000 FPM steady.

yes  4 speed fr 60bucks you cant go wrong    p  m me anytime or e mail  huieshapes@bigpond.com

[mark venn]

Go for the multi speed shwuz, that saw looks really good vfm, not dissimilar to the one that I have in my shop. I am using the bandsaw more and more and often wish that I had gone for a bigger machine, but they do cost a lot new.  One thing I would look for though is that the guide bearings are proper metal bearings, some of the cheaper machines make do with composite blocks or even wooden ones.  These are ok, but can get hot and or wear quickly and before you know it your cut is all wavey!
Mark

[Benny]

Yeah, these guys are on it. On a smaller saw you can always add a riser block set and run longer blades for a bigger throat. 

On anything from China, you're going to be on Joewoodworker or someplace, buying new guide blocks & pulleys because those are likely to be the bits that are crap.  The motor, wheels, and case should be fine.  Go ahead and check the cost of a good set of ceramic guide blocks and sealed bearing rollers and add it to the price of the HF right up front, and the shipping, and then see if you wouldn't be better off buying a Rigid or something at your local Home Depot.

To rip stock, I usually screw longer pieces of straight strong wood to the little bandsaw fence to help guide it all the way through.  The fence should have holes through it so you can screw in a bigger fence piece from the back.  A featherboard helps it stay true on the open side too, or even two - one before the blade & one after.  The thin cuts are actually easier than the thicker ones in some ways, because the blade is cutting closer to the fence and has less room to drift.

 

[huie]

Go for the multi speed shwuz, that saw looks really good vfm, not dissimilar to the one that I have in my shop. I am using the bandsaw more and more and often wish that I had gone for a bigger machine, but they do cost a lot new.  One thing I would look for though is that the guide bearings are proper metal bearings, some of the cheaper machines make do with composite blocks or even wooden ones.  These are ok, but can get hot and or wear quickly and before you know it your cut is all wavey!
Mark

yes marks right about guid blocks from the pic it probly has carbon type blocks(easy to replace)
the best guides have 3 way bearings or ceramic(but man you wont need all this unless  your gonna flog the shit out of it)
its the speed you run the bandsaw at thats most important i can cut 4'' cabriole legs all day whith a 14 '' bandsaw

huie

[Glenn Shotwell]

Shwuz,
For consistent 1/16" I think you'd have to have a fairly good machine.  Blades are key here.  We use a 14" band saw at work daily.  Nothing beats a good blade.  And we're not resawing 1/16". 

But I've been checking at SawMill Creek forum over the last few years and the 14" Grizzly gets good reviews.  I've got a good 14" Delta 28-299 at home that I've had for about 8yrs now, but don't get much chance to use it as I'd like.  But hope to upgrade the fence and eventually but a riser on it.

There is a good book by Mark Duginske on Band Saws called "the new complete guide to the band saw" you might see if it is at the book store or if your lucky the library.  Good book.

But from my reading on SawMill Creek I think that serious resaw ability starts with a 16" saw.  But from reading Mark's book a well tuned 14" will do it nearly as well for all but the hardest and thickest stock.

Sound to me from those that know how to really use them that the Band Saw is the most important tool in a wood shop.  And if you can swing it you might want to spend as much as you can.  Resale of the better saws is a consideration, if your planning on getting rid of it eventually.  There are deals on Craigslist but it takes a bit of luck and effort to keep looking.

edit: Also I think it is really considered that the 14" cannot really take the 3/4" blade and the 16" can.

[Jarrod]

Well, I won't be sawing anything hard and thick...   Just ask the ladies!  Badum bum CHING!  Thank you, thank you, I'm here all week, don't forget to tip your servers!

But seriously,  I'm just looking to do balsa, poulownia, and maybe a little cedar.

Speaking of wood, does ANYONE know where a person can get some paulownia in the US?  Preferably already milled?  I've looked online and all I can find are people selling seedlings.  I don't really want to wait 10 years to grow my own, you know?

Its looking like we'll be skipping Ecuador, so the idea of shipping up some balsa is probably out.  Never know though, I still have a contact or two down there.  Probably a logistical nightmare anyway.

Bottom line, I want to build some boards when I get back home in march, and after using full-length wood one time, I'm SO done with using 48" sticks!  I need some freaking alternatives here!

[huie]

Well, I won't be sawing anything hard and thick...   Just ask the ladies!  Badum bum CHING!  Thank you, thank you, I'm here all week, don't forget to tip your servers!

But seriously,  I'm just looking to do balsa, poulownia, and maybe a little cedar.

Speaking of wood, does ANYONE know where a person can get some paulownia in the US?  Preferably already milled?  I've looked online and all I can find are people selling seedlings.  I don't really want to wait 10 years to grow my own, you know?

Its looking like we'll be skipping Ecuador, so the idea of shipping up some balsa is probably out.  Never know though, I still have a contact or two down there.  Probably a logistical nightmare anyway.shuwz  take it you want to cut 1/6th straight off saw  onto skin thats amighty fine cut to make  the best way is bandsaw  verneirs at about 4 ml  then run them through a drum sander   local cabinet shop shoul do that for you
  somtimes i just run mine through the thicknesser can get down to about 1 1/2ml
make sure the timber is backsawn  an no defects or the planer willeat it like i said  when your ready i will walk you through the whole thing se ya

huie

Bottom line, I want to build some boards when I get back home in march, and after using full-length wood one time, I'm SO done with using 48" sticks!  I need some freaking alternatives here!

[paul cannon]

hey huie
sabs showed me a way after we bandsawed the sheet to 4mm
he flush trims them with the router to square them up using a template
the tapes them together and flips the sheet
and uses a random orbital sander to flaten

i tried this and it works okay if you can handle the dust

[StrangeBrew]

just ask Ian for some paulownia.....in about 20 years  .

don't know anything about the tools themselves; bandsaw is outta my budget and outta my space constraints, but the friends father that has been doing my milling for me has taken *courses* in resawing veneers on a bandsaw. Tricky, I think, to put it lightly.

Tightest I've ever gotten my cedar back from him was a c-hair under 2mm, which I then planed to thickness. That said, all of that stock was completely, totally even; no major warbles, no warps, no major rip lines. Can be done, but hot-damn...big learning methinks.