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May 21, 2012, 02:32:13 PM
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Author Topic: Epoxy Sanding/Gloss Coat  (Read 873 times)
gp
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« on: June 13, 2010, 06:29:03 AM »

Hi,

I have done my first vac bag board, balsa wood skins with epoxy laminate. I am really happy with the laminate but I am having problems with the sanding/gloss coat.

I am using Resin Research epoxy, which I was told would work for laminate and sand coat, but the sanding coat I put on seems to pool up and leave dry dimples all over the surface about 5-10mm in diameter.

I sand with 120, wipe with acetone and use a heater to speed up cure and reduce the viscosity of the resin whilst spreading.

Am I doing something completely wrong? Does anyone have any ideas to stop the pooling? I really don't want to use poly for the last resin coats, but I might have to if i keep getting this dimpled finish.

Thanks in advance,
« Last Edit: June 13, 2010, 06:36:36 AM by gp » Logged
peteuk
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« Reply #1 on: June 13, 2010, 05:41:52 PM »

hi, in general , fish eyes are caused by contamination of some sort or another , more than likely finger prints ,once the glassing is done i never touch the board unless i am wearing latex gloves , for the final coat i sand ,wash with water with a small amount of detergent ,rinze well , dry the board , lightly sand, brush off dust with a paint brush and then recoat , pete
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mark venn
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« Reply #2 on: June 14, 2010, 03:58:40 PM »

May be the acetone?  Not a good clean solvent, loads of contaminants in acetone.  Try soap and water as Pete sez, or alcohol based cleaner.
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paul cannon
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« Reply #3 on: September 10, 2010, 09:18:12 PM »

if the epoxy is compatable, i think it debatable that a poly fill coat may have better adhesion. huies been doing them no problems for 4 years.
anyway if you do your Epoxy fill coat while the lam is still tacky there will be no problems as long as you mix the resin at correct ratios. the trick is not to use solvents or additives and keep your glassing environment clean. tape your stands fresh everytime and dont handle the board hardly at all and use bags over your hands when you do. a course scotchbrite will remove most blush if you do wait for the lam to fully cure before filling
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lemat
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« Reply #4 on: September 12, 2010, 03:08:25 AM »

Sometimes i do poly fill on epoxy when i use french epoxy (from resoltech wich is compatible) or RR. After complete cure i sand lam lightly then i coarse quickly all surface with metalic brush on sander.

With stringerless classic lam, boards can really flex a lot before snap and  poly filler go out before. Not a real problem, a very simple repair and a good warning for the surfer  Cheesy

Never have problem with poly filler over epoxy lam on wood board or stringered decently glass.
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tomway
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« Reply #5 on: September 12, 2010, 03:48:54 AM »

I agree with Paul and mat.

I've just done #7 the first was all epoxy and the last 6 have been P.E. fill coats using the huie method. The only one I've had problems with  fill coat separation and delam was the first   Huh All the P.E. ones have been fine.

Gotta love epoxy, strong, flexible and almost odorless so your wife doesn't even know your laminating in the garage  Grin

...but you gotta love P.E. (especially UV) - fast, a dream to sand and unmatchable for gloss

I'm happy using the two together!
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