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afoaf
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« on: June 03, 2008, 11:13:41 AM » |
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has anyone considered the use of narrow crown staples as a means of temporarily laying up rails?
board sideways in racks with first layer rail strip glued (bagged) to blank.
lay down epoxy
put down strip, staple center.
fit adjoining strip and splice in place, staple center.
repeat as necessary for each layer, save the last one
no staples on exterior rail.
they sell finish staples with 1/2" and 3/8" 'legs' as they call them which means that there's minimal
penetration past the first rail strip into the foam....but it is there.
cutting curves with a blade to fit rocker beds makes me want to kick puppies and will surely end up
in missing fingertips.
lay them up fast and rough, use the offcut/2x4 tek to clamp on the rails tight and mow it down with
a planer.
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surfer_dave
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« Reply #1 on: June 05, 2008, 04:28:34 AM » |
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has anyone considered the use of narrow crown staples as a means of temporarily laying up rails?
I wouldn't be surprised to find staples in "production" sandwich boards. I have seen how cobra made windsurfer sandwich boards back in them olden days... rows of blanks with a bunch of women stapling fiber and sandwich materials to the blanks before they went to the molding machine.. We used to wonder why certain dings caused the boards to "bleed" .. it was rust... |
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afoaf
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« Reply #2 on: June 05, 2008, 06:42:08 PM » |
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hmmm....very interesting. a little blood might help illuminate an otherwise invisible ding... glass half full.  |
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Kit Sidwell
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« Reply #3 on: June 05, 2008, 06:49:37 PM » |
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I think thats a really good idea!
you could use laminating epoxy, with cabosil.
If you've got a Paslode finish nailer it would be too easy... or any air powered nail gun that takes the smallest finishing nails.
You could maybe even do 3 strips at a time, just nail where the apex of the rail will be.
Start at the tail and work you way around
Then, as you say, just put a thin capping strip, maybe 1/8" on last with 5min epoxy to hide the nails
That could fully work!
Then just wait til the epoxy sets and shape it
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rikds
Jr. Member
Stoke: 1
 Offline
Posts: 12
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« Reply #4 on: June 06, 2008, 07:22:56 PM » |
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The answer is to use plastic nails / staples. You can plane / sand / grind them no worries. No rust bleed either. Boatbuilders been doing this for years.
Rik
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Ian
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« Reply #5 on: June 06, 2008, 09:29:48 PM » |
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I have a project on the back burner, do a heavier then S@#$ retro fish board with scrap 1/4ply skin and rails.
Foam fish frame- ribs, solid nose& tail and then glue and staple with 1/4"crown & finish nail stapler.Shape with a belt sander.
Plastic staples sound like the go.
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Ian
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afoaf
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« Reply #6 on: June 07, 2008, 10:24:50 AM » |
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Definitely.
I'm going to see what I can find.
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afoaf
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« Reply #8 on: June 10, 2008, 12:12:56 AM » |
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don't show me this!
this is just going to suck me in to the next board before I get my wife's shutters done.
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Ian
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« Reply #9 on: June 10, 2008, 10:35:38 AM » |
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Sounds like it's time to build the wife a bigger cedar sauna (post cure room) . All ways better to over buy on the wood.Cedar rails stapled on would be sweet. |
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Ian
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Kit Sidwell
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« Reply #10 on: June 10, 2008, 05:10:39 PM » |
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Gotta find some nails that can be driven by hand, no money in the budget fro finsh nailers at the moment.
Although i've always wanted one, it could have almost paid for itself on one carpentry job i did, the amount of trim that went on.
Ring shanks (annular groove) would be awesome
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Bernhardt
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« Reply #11 on: June 11, 2008, 02:57:11 AM » |
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Gotta find some nails that can be driven by hand, no money in the budget fro finsh nailers at the moment.
Although i've always wanted one, it could have almost paid for itself on one carpentry job i did, the amount of trim that went on.
Ring shanks (annular groove) would be awesome
Something else we did as a kid repairing cracks in solid koa outrigger canoe hulls. One each side of the crack we'd drill hole every inch or so at an angle. where the angle opposed each other on each side of the crack. you the hammer in a bamboo skewer and cut it flush with a razor. when you saturate it with a penetrating sealant or it gets wet the bamboo skewer swells up and pinches the crack closes kind of like nature's stitches. Probably could do the same on the rails 'cept sanding cross grain is an ouch/owey with bamboo for those who haven't experienced that yet.. |
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Kit Sidwell
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« Reply #12 on: June 11, 2008, 06:23:14 PM » |
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That would be a really classy way of doing things Bernie
you've got me thinking now
You'd leave the flush skewers exposed and it would look awesome, as long as they were at even intervals, looking regular.
I wonder if you drilled an undersize hole then banged the skewer in, if it would have enough hold to keep the rail in the curve.
Or maybe you just need to drill in on a 45deg angle
I might have an experiment today, that could be a neat trick
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Kit Sidwell
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« Reply #13 on: June 11, 2008, 06:35:56 PM » |
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oh duh, i'm a bit slow
No need to drill a hole, of course you can just hammer them through like a wooden nail/staple.
The wood is too soft though, they don't hold well enough.
There could be a way of working around it though.
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surfer_dave
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« Reply #14 on: June 12, 2008, 04:31:53 AM » |
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I think if you used bamboo ply skins this peg method would work. You'd get a neat line of rivets along the rail line... would take some craftsmanship to make it look nice though.. Thicker rails and thick skins but wow it could be very naaaaaice!
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