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[afoaf]

I'm still very green with the Clark planer...getting the courage to put the thing down
and open the throat on balsa rails is a big leap for me...the consequences are always
HEAVY.

The sander was an imperfect tool for the job, was considering Jensen's belt sander
method and had no luck using any of my hand planes on the balsa...lots of fuzz, no
good peels.

I picked this up the other week to tune up a stringer in a PU blank I was *repurposing*
and though I should give it a whirl on the rails.



http://www.foamez.com/top-plane-p-161.html

When I adjust the blade to maximum depth, it worked GREAT. Got both deckside rails rolled
relatively cleanly in about 10 minutes...all to the comforting sound of peeling wood.

What are other folks using for their rails if not their power planers?

[mark venn]

Stanley  #60 block plane. low angle blade works great, got to keep them sharp though.

[afoaf]

the shop gnomes got away with mine, this may be just the justification I needed to replace it.

[RoyStewart]

 A wood rasp and sanding block for the first ten years ( for balsa and other woods ) in the last 5 years a belt sander (for the rails only)  and  sanding blocks.

[afoaf]

 A wood rasp and sanding block for the first ten years ( for balsa and other woods ) in the last 5 years a belt sander (for the rails only)  and  sanding blocks.

do you ever feel like you're flying blind with the belt sander?

that was the sensation I had using my disc sander, plus you can't really get behind it and walk the board...

[RoyStewart]

  Disc sanders are a different tool. . ..  much higher speed and way more difficult to use.  Belt sanders are sweet, Paul Jensen finds that too.   I use mine vertically not horizontally and do not walk the board, all material to be removed is clearly marked so I know exactly where I am at all times.

.

   

[royal]

  Disc sanders are a different tool. . ..  much higher speed and way more difficult to use.  Belt sanders are sweet, Paul Jensen finds that too.   I use mine vertically not horizontally and do not walk the board, all material to be removed is clearly marked so I know exactly where I am at all times.

.

   

that's an interesting concept, roy. As you no doubt know me from MSW, this whole wood thing has me up all night....

Anyway, have been slowly building a wood/eps board(without vacuum) and was losing sleep about turing the rails. I figured a belt sander would be a good investment, for fins also, and figured you could hold it at a 45, and walk the rails like a planer. Obviously, the build up process can save a lot of work if thought out in advance, but a belt sander seems like the logical choice.

Are you using coarse grits, or sticking with higher grits for a slower/cleaner ethic?

[RoyStewart]

 Hi Rob,

 I'm using 36, 60, or 80 grit, just to get the bulk off, and holding the sander vertically for a couple of passes and then hold it horizontally just to clean up any bumps prior to hand sanding. I'll get the first facet just right before belt sanding the second facet. My rails have a constant cross section which makes rail turning life rather pleasant ! 

The belt sander is good for fins, some guys use stationary belt sanders which is even better.

.

[royal]

roy,

that sounds like a good way of doing things, and should help me sleep at night...

thanks!

[soulvoid]

I use a jigsaw with the shoe set at an angle to remove excess rail material and get pretty close to the first band on the balsa rails. Be careful though so you don't cut into skins/EPS. Better to cut a little too far away than too close. I also sometimes use a utility knife, but then you need to be careful you don't cut the wrong way against the grain or you risk splits or deeper cuts than you wanted.

As long as you don't have any skins on near the rail (do as Paul suggests and shape the rail first, then vacuum bag the skins on) I would suggest using the power planer. Honestly I think a belt sander require more experience and practice than a planer. I tend to easily get some nasty gauges with the belt sander. If your uncertain about it, practice on some scrap foam first. Plan your cuts carefully and watch the depth of the cut at all times. Do many shallow passes instead of a few deep ones.

If you are not confident enough to use a power planer, coarse sandpaper on a hard block removes balsa pretty fast. It takes more time than a power tool, but if you want a safe way it doesn't get much safer...