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February 05, 2012, 04:16:55 PM
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Author Topic: The sober and sensible 13 footer Hawaii Challenge thread  (Read 6140 times)
RoyStewart
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« on: December 21, 2008, 03:30:31 PM »


  I thought it might be nice to start a troll free thread for updates and design discussion, tgiven that there's so much misinformation being posted on Swaypox right now

Currently the board is with Haleiwa Bill,  and is waiting for the next swell which will be sometime in January. 

 

 
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Kit Sidwell
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« Reply #1 on: December 21, 2008, 03:42:22 PM »

Yep, lets hear about it!

I for one am purely interested in seein it ridden....
I don't really buy in to all the other BS.

Ah, looks like there's waves later today, and Raglan beckons for New Years....
Life is good!


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paul cannon
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« Reply #2 on: December 21, 2008, 04:45:59 PM »

 i can act as honary troll if you like roy
nah this site is begging for a 13ft thread

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dougirwin13
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« Reply #3 on: December 21, 2008, 07:20:24 PM »

Oh this is gonna be interesting!
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paul cannon
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« Reply #4 on: December 22, 2008, 12:19:27 AM »

i rode the board in about waste to chest high offshore rivermouth
it was perfect peeling waves like noosa
its a big heavy board and hard to duckdive and turn while sitting on
after awhile i got the hang of getting around on it and turning while sitting
first couple of waves i came a gutsa trying to fade to bottom turn
no hope
after that i started angling on the takeoff and found the sweetspot
and she took off like a longboard in perfect trim
i found the board fast and drivey in waves that would have been hard to get going on a shortboard
it was fun but hard to turn
i found it did give a sensation of a fast ride and made it feel like proper surfing
in contrast i swaped the board for a dick brewer shortboard and surfed it for a few waves
it felt driveless and wobbly, in fact the worse shortboard ive ever ridden

it had no drive and was almost impossible to get any speed on the board in the small clean waves
so out of the brewer and the 13footer
13fter wins hands down,  on the day

my friend miles ( a long time big wave charger,, ulladulla and shark island , boatharbours, rolling stones, outside indicators and the naki) rode the board in pumping 4 to 5 ft hawaaian rolling point break, he surfed it for a few hours and maybe got around 30 peeling overhead waves on it..
he took to it very well and you could easily see the fast trim speed he was getting on the board. Miles is not a nose rider tho he loves longboards.  he surfed the board in a similar style to roy does with a forward facing stance in a forward area of the board.. he found the board hard to turn but said it gave a good sensation of momentum and felt fast in trim.. he spoke highly of the board its workmanship and was grateful to be part of the experience and wrote a nice poem about it on the boardbag >(maybe you could republish it here roy)
watching miles and in comparrison the video of randy rarick, i felt that miles surfed the board a lot better then randy. ive seen miles get barreld like fcking crazy in some secret spots around here. he is a true barrel master , he can get 4 second barrels on a 9 fter as easily as a 7 6..

 we both surf qaulity waves and both of us enjoyed the experience and i enjoyed meeting roy and his family.


« Last Edit: December 23, 2008, 02:56:23 PM by paul cannon » Logged
RoyStewart
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« Reply #5 on: December 22, 2008, 01:04:46 AM »


  Hi Paul,

 Thanks for the report, all the boardbag writing is on a video I'll see if I can dig up Miles' poem.

 Haleiwa Bill wrote yesterday to say that they had some sessions lined up with a couple of riders he knows who are as keen as, and his magazine photographer to cover it. The sessions were planned for the day that the flood came in.  Right now it's still teed up for the next swell, the break they are looking at is Log Cabins now known as Phantoms.  I know who one of the riders is but can't say too much right now. 

There's also a surf movie being shot this season and the moviemaker is hoping to feature the 13 footer, so with that sort of energy behind it we should see some results.

Bill had a lot of property damage during the flood, and is still cleaning up.

We have had to be patient because we are getting the coverage purely due the interest factor, rather than hiring the riders and so on which is the quickest way to get action.

.


 

   
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paul cannon
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« Reply #6 on: December 23, 2008, 03:16:52 AM »

they cant stop talking about you on swaylocks tho
talk about a legacy Grin
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paul cannon
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« Reply #7 on: December 23, 2008, 03:23:13 AM »

i think that maybe some people cant read well
weve already ridden the board in good size waves
they must think that myself, miles and dunnos crew and yourself are not trustworthy people
unfortunate
« Last Edit: December 23, 2008, 03:44:38 AM by paul cannon » Logged
dougirwin13
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« Reply #8 on: December 23, 2008, 04:09:30 AM »

Probably because people, as a group, are... Uuummm... IQ challenged.
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RoyStewart
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« Reply #9 on: December 23, 2008, 05:51:14 AM »

 Yes Doug it is sadly the case that we live on a planet of  Dunces

 Nevertheless we soldier on, as one must.

 



 
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paul cannon
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« Reply #10 on: December 23, 2008, 08:02:32 AM »

ironically roy never even designed the board for pipe, he told me a 7 to 8ft would be his personal choice
the board was designed for a variety of waves that he has access to surf
the whole challenge thing was because BB told him that his designs would not work in wave of consequence
roy felt his board, although not designed specifically for pipeline, would perform better then other longboard designs like malibus and SUPS.
everything else is just lies and bulshit from other parties.
BTs persistence is bordering on insanity IMO. BT has no basis of experience,
 wrt roy boards or his building technique or roy as a human being.
ive had the privelige of insite into all three and its very cool imo

alowing those threads on swaylocks is a sort of a scoffing running joke, at roys expense
but the whole thing is just making people loose respect for the participators.
this is why i bowed out
i was responding emotionally and it was bad for myself and both comunities

there are always vested interests, aliances and political motivations.
thats the nature of the industry and web comunitys.
i suggested roy as a moderator here and to date he has proven to be helpful and respectful as i expected. im guessing the reason is that no one on this site has taken up "scoffing" as a internet pastime..


« Last Edit: December 23, 2008, 02:57:54 PM by paul cannon » Logged
Bernhardt
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« Reply #11 on: December 23, 2008, 09:46:03 AM »


  Hi Paul,

 Thanks for the report, all the boardbag writing is on a video I'll see if I can dig up Miles' poem.

 Haleiwa Bill wrote yesterday to say that they had some sessions lined up with a couple of riders he knows who are as keen as, and his magazine photographer to cover it. The sessions were planned for the day that the flood came in.  Right now it's still teed up for the next swell, the break they are looking at is Log Cabins now known as Phantoms.  I know who one of the riders is but can't say too much right now. 

There's also a surf movie being shot this season and the moviemaker is hoping to feature the 13 footer, so with that sort of energy behind it we should see some results.

Bill had a lot of property damage during the flood, and is still cleaning up.

We have had to be patient because we are getting the coverage purely due the interest factor, rather than hiring the riders and so on which is the quickest way to get action.

.


 

   

Aloha Roy!
Mele Kalikimaka and Haouli Makahili Hou everyone.

good to hear that Bill's okay..
I was going to give him a call soon to see if I could borrow the board over the holidays to try.
been busy and bogged down trying finish a my handmade xmas gifts the bad weather has really made things difficult since i work outside.
If i can swing it it would be nice to paddle it out for a christmas surf but we'll see.

Bill is an editor on an online SUP blog and contributing writer to the new flashy SUP magazine out so he has a contact list of riders. Phantoms is a perfect spot its a big outside reef break and the place where Tom Stone holds his inaugural "papa he'e nalu" contest. That's where native hawaiian surfers paddle out old style olo's and alaia's that tom has made in traditional hawaiian malo's and surf a contest in huge waves. I think Keli'i Mamala won the last contest. It's also a place where several have died in monster size surf as phantoms is one of those spots that only breaks well when the the rest of the northshore is closing out. I always thought it would be a good spot as well as some secret spots on the east side that only some big waves chargers hit when the northshore is closing out. It would be neat to see your boards go head to head against one of Tom's boards with Tom as the test pilot. He's one of the few who actually have the most mileage surfing a traditional handmade hawaiian olo and alaia around the world in challenging surf. Plus he respects and understands wood..

http://www.hawaiibc.com/surf.htm

aloha no
to you and the family Roy
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RoyStewart
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« Reply #12 on: December 23, 2008, 12:56:44 PM »


  Hi Paul,

 Thanks for the report, all the boardbag writing is on a video I'll see if I can dig up Miles' poem.

 Haleiwa Bill wrote yesterday to say that they had some sessions lined up with a couple of riders he knows who are as keen as, and his magazine photographer to cover it. The sessions were planned for the day that the flood came in.  Right now it's still teed up for the next swell, the break they are looking at is Log Cabins now known as Phantoms.  I know who one of the riders is but can't say too much right now. 

There's also a surf movie being shot this season and the moviemaker is hoping to feature the 13 footer, so with that sort of energy behind it we should see some results.

Bill had a lot of property damage during the flood, and is still cleaning up.

We have had to be patient because we are getting the coverage purely due the interest factor, rather than hiring the riders and so on which is the quickest way to get action.

.


 

   

Aloha Roy!
Mele Kalikimaka and Haouli Makahili Hou everyone.

good to hear that Bill's okay..
I was going to give him a call soon to see if I could borrow the board over the holidays to try.
been busy and bogged down trying finish a my handmade xmas gifts the bad weather has really made things difficult since i work outside.
If i can swing it it would be nice to paddle it out for a christmas surf but we'll see.

Bill is an editor on an online SUP blog and contributing writer to the new flashy SUP magazine out so he has a contact list of riders. Phantoms is a perfect spot its a big outside reef break and the place where Tom Stone holds his inaugural "papa he'e nalu" contest. That's where native hawaiian surfers paddle out old style olo's and alaia's that tom has made in traditional hawaiian malo's and surf a contest in huge waves. I think Keli'i Mamala won the last contest. It's also a place where several have died in monster size surf as phantoms is one of those spots that only breaks well when the the rest of the northshore is closing out. I always thought it would be a good spot as well as some secret spots on the east side that only some big waves chargers hit when the northshore is closing out. It would be neat to see your boards go head to head against one of Tom's boards with Tom as the test pilot. He's one of the few who actually have the most mileage surfing a traditional handmade hawaiian olo and alaia around the world in challenging surf. Plus he respects and understands wood..

http://www.hawaiibc.com/surf.htm

aloha no
to you and the family Roy


Aloha Bernhardt,

Thankyou for your thoughts and insight, I just checked out Tom Stone's fascinating site.  My cousin Tim and I  used to make wooden sleds when we were kids back in about 1970, for sliding down the old volcanic cones in Auckland, so it is a blast to see the traditional Hawaiian sleds. Ours had windscreens and mirrors added, just to be cool and we rode them seated on the grassy slopes. We also made paipos from pine chip board for a while, but then got into foam slabs .

It would be an honour to have Tom check out the 13 footer.  Of course I don't consider it to be an  olo ( we call our boards olo in the modern sense, when they are over about 15 feet )  but I'm sure he would find it interesting.  I'm wishing that I could have sent a quiver, including some longer thicker boards and one of our  flatter rockered  speed boards as well. Maybe another time !

I see that Tom has  several degrees from the University of Hawaii. I applied for a scholarship to the University of Hawaii after doing my degree at Auckland in 1985.  At the time I didn't understand that the university would consider surfing to be part of  Pacific studies , so made an aplication which lacked conviction, based more on sociology and that sort of thing. Back then, surfing was what we did when not at university.     

By the way we had some Hawaiian Blokes visit back in the university days, we took them surfing at rainy Karekare, and their battle cry was something like  Okole Maluna !  I'm not sure what it means but they called it often. ..  something to do with beer ?

cheers
Roy


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Bernhardt
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« Reply #13 on: December 24, 2008, 11:31:36 PM »

Happy Holidays Roy..

"Okole Maluna !"
means "bottoms up!"
it's more of a toast than a war chant

Its funny that the UH Warrior football team has adopted the controversial "haka" as it pregame greeting for its opponents and it has caused quite a stir in college football who's tried to get it banned.

Tom was one of the original drugged out black shorts gang(Da Hui) on the north shore in the 70's beating up folks as an enforcer at pipe before he turned his life around. His son is a champion sailboarder and they've actually windsurfed together between the oahu and kauai.


 
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paul cannon
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« Reply #14 on: December 26, 2008, 05:42:52 PM »

im not that fully keen on the haka to be honest
if i was to do the same thing in english id be arrested
i just think new zealand is so politically correct it ends up a racist goverment
i had to leave the surf.co forum because they mostly all hate asian people ( my wife and kid are japanese)and everyone was okay with people calling my wife a chink or a gook..
but if they were talking about maori it would have been the end of the world
so its ok to be racist againt asian or white but not maori


wrt swaylocks thread...when bill posted it again i felt really sorry for him
i was thinking oh the poor old guy
but then a whole lot of people jumped in to support him
so it polarizes the site and indicates to me whom i should associate by there reaction to it
its interesting  i dont actually get along that well with those involved
i have a motto . and its served me well
avoid people that talk about others behind their backs or not to their face


« Last Edit: December 26, 2008, 06:25:00 PM by paul cannon » Logged
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